Slovenia: mountains, lakes and waterfalls

20 July 2016 | 0 comments

Lake Bohinj

Lake Bohinj

July 2016, two weeks of stunning mountains with Ramblers in the Julian Alps of Slovenia. Each day we walked in two groups, 15 to 25km distance, 600 – 1400m ascent. and, usually, what goes up must come down. Also, usually, the D+ walks were steepish with the odd scramble, the C walks were simply bigger and gnarlier! Here’s a summary of the routes and highlights, it’s 14 days so just keep scrolling down for more days and more photos….

Our Hotel Jezero at Lake Bohinj

Our Hotel Jezero at Lake Bohinj

Arrival at lovely Lake Bohinj and the hotel Jezero. We’re all thrilled with the idea of free wine and beer on tap every night.

Day 1:  D+ Lake walk to Slap (= waterfall) Savica. Morning coffee served with surprising thimble sized cups made of chocolate and filled with blueberry liquer; back along lake shore.   C  Up, up and up the cliffs of Komarca. Slap Savica, lunch next to Crno Jezero with splendid lake view, Dom (=hut) na Komni, then a drenching in the heavy thunderstorm.

Day 2: Our one rainy day, and it was rain ALL day. D+ Mostnica gorge, dramatic narrow limestone gorge with hut serving warming soup at the end.  C Mostnica gorge then climbing to Planinska Kota na Uskovnici. End of day visit to Church of St. John the Baptist with beautiful and unusual fresoes (angels with teeth and saints with 6 toes and extraordinary inward focussed eyes).

Day 3: D+Cliffs of Krma up and through limestone valley with great karst features, stunning ridge walk then a fight through the dwarf pine up to peak Mrezce.  C the same walk, but adding in the peak of Visevnik at the start, with longer and scramblier ridge walk. Much happy waving from the peak to the valley. Julia and Jane had fun in the canoe.

Day 4: D+ Valleys and Village wander. A visit to Studor Olpen museum showing valley life of the past (sooty with small beds)  Srednja vas for coffee and cake by the river. Interminable wait for cake ( being baked) but what a cake it was, worth every minute.  C Crna Prst from  Ravne  to Oroznova koca (=small house) Continued through spectacular flora to Crna Prst hut, a worthy summit with spectacular views.

Day 5: Many visited Bled today and walked to Vintgar Gorge, some went to the castle. A beautiful setting but generally we were put off by the commercial and tourist feel after our quiet oasis of Bohinj. John and Julia tried out the stand up paddleboards on Bohinj, lovely. Others walked the villages and enjoyed wonderful  hostpitality of the locals, who, where no cafe could be found, offered drinks,  doughnuts and honey.

Day 6: both groups take the Vogel cable car, and after coffee at the dairy farm thenascent to Vogel, the C group went on to Sija with lunch on the ridge. A wonderful high mountain day.

Kranjska Gora, view of Prisank

Kranjska Gora, view of Prisank

Day 7: We transfer to Kranjska Gora and the Ramada suites hotel. No time to rest, we walk off to to Godz Martuljek, then to Slap Martuljkov and the totally rural mountain hut of Pri Ingotu nestled beow the highest peaks, sampling the Yota and strudel, all cooked on the wood fire. For some a scramble to the upper falls as well.

Day 8: A favorite day for many, we all took the bus up the Russian road to the Vrsic pass.  D+  Selemova spica, an airy grassy summit, the back to the pass with lunch in view of the heathen lady in the rock. Down the gentle switchbacks of the old grassy track to the tiny and perfect wooden Russian chapel. C also to  Slemenova Spica descending on a more adventurous and snowy steep gully to Planinski Dom v Tamarji.

Day 9: Today we all climb Ciprnik, a stunning summit with a cheeky scramble up the final ascent. Vitranc chairlift gently eased us up the first few hundred meters, but the next chairlift  long ceased operation, so a steep and merciless ascent followed,  up to Mojcin Dom na Vitrancu for well earned drinks. Then along a delightful forested ridge to the summit, where a helicopter was evacuating an injured walker (not too serious we believe).

Day 10: Italy today, and another of the favourite walks, from Laghi Di Fusine, mirror still and glassy clear. C make it to Bivacco Di Nogera, a steep and gnarly high mountain path with wires, not for the faint hearted, but perched on an impossible little spur looking over this incredible mountain bowl. D+ climbed through the forest to a balcony path, and the up to Pico de pocini to peer over the edge back into Slovenia.12.45. All make it back to rifugio Zacchi (of the memorable pear and chocolate cake and OWLS)  2.15, back to the lakes and a paddle for some hot feet.

Day 11: a free day. Leaders were checking possible routes on Mala Mojstrovka and Prisanc (with a bit of via ferrata thrown in) others hired bikes, visited Ljubljana (sounded marvellous), walked around lakes nearby, walked to Podkoren, used swimming pool and wandered in the village.

Day 12: Walks shortened due to a forecast of thunderstorms, most of which we successfully dodged. D+:  to Podkoren and Zelenci nature reserve and Ratece. C: 3 countries walk up to the Dreilanderhutte where Itlay, Austria and Slovenia meet.

Day 13: Meeting with Triglav. So even if we didn’t climb this wonderful mountain, a little beyong the scope of this holiday, we certainly had an ‘in your face’ triglav day. D+ from Mojstrana up Vrata valley to UNDERNEATH Pericnik waterfall, then to Aljavez Dom and a loop walk under north wall of Triglav. C reached the highest summit of the holiday, Stenar, via a similar but far more challenging route of 1400m ascent and sighted ibex, chamois and salamanders. A fantastic last day.

snowy says cheerio

snowy says cheerio

Thank you everyone for a truly wonderful fortnight, if you’d like to leave any comments (which would be mighty nice) click on snowy and follow the links.


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